Ok so these Displays should all work:
The fan header on the board is 2-pin not 3-pin BTW.
Yeah i kow there should be an adapter in the box for a 2pin fan header
How are temps with the S1L alone? Is the nocuta on top a bit of overkill, isn’t it? Saw even a S1 with the nocuta…Quite huge?
I have a USB<->Serial part from AdaFruit which works fine with VisionFive 2 board.
The screen command I use from RaspBerryPi4/Raspian Linux is
vvv===vvv
screen /dev/ttyUSB0 115200
^^^===^^^
When you plug in the USB->Serial, you can check the device by “dmesg |tail -40” or so and it should show up.
Yeah the heatsink is enough for normal operations but i read if you do compiling for a long time it could get to the brink where a fan is needed.
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Thank you. Unfortunately it is very expensive. Any alternatives of that size?
Ok so if i use this i can see the boot process ? I got a Serial adapter from AZdelivery.
Thanks man
Yes you can.
If you meant the heat sink, this link might be helpful.
Yes I meant the heatsink. With the fan on top it costs almost as much as den V2 
Your link monstrous Thank you.
Looking more for something like the “smaller one”:
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Found it cheaper: https://www.amazon.de/Enzotech-Corp-CNB-S1L-Northbridge-Kühler/dp/B002BX08IS I think i will order this one. I like to low profile.
To enter the user in sudoers, I connected a Waveshare 7inch IPS Capacitive Touch Screen 1024x600 and a wireless Illuminated Living-Room Keyboard K830. The duo costs more than I paid for the VisionFive2 with 8GB and WiFi at Waveshare, but I’ve been using the keyboard to set up Linux systems from time to time for 8 years.
The keyboard can lie on the lap when the desk is too full again. I have also crawled under the table with the 7" touch screen and keyboard to try something out on an open tower case.
Touch screen as well as the keyboard with USB Unifying receiver worked immediately with VisionFive2 software v2.8.0
Everyone knows htop and if a console is available, it’s hard to beat, but on a router, a pi-hole, a Stratum 1 NTP, or a NAS, hardly anyone will permanently connect a console. That’s where LCD4Linux comes in, this software allows the easy use of very different displays for status indication.
Long story short, I connected an LCD2USB to my VisionFive 2 and activated it. It is possible to combine the open source software with self-built open source hardware, or to buy ready-made LCD from other manufacturers. As examples:
Till Harbaum LCD2USB
FriendlyELEC LCD2USB
Adafruit USB + Serial RGB Backlight Character LCD Backpack
Matrix Orbital Displays
To use an LCD2USB on the VisionFive 2, I installed the following packages:
sudo apt install lm-sensors usbutils libusb-0.1-4 lcd4linux
After that, pretty much at the end of /etc/lcd4linux.conf, I made two changes:
Deactivated the driver NULL: display ‘NULL’ becomes #display ‘NULL’.
and activated LCD2USB instead: #Display ‘LCD2USB’ becomes Display ‘LCD2USB’.
Afterwards, a first test ran successfully immediately: sudo lcd4linux -Fvv
Here is a short video of the first test.
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I found this usb to uart as well that comes in an aluminum shell:
Would this power adapter be compatible?
- 5V 4A Power Adapter Charger
- USB Type C
- 100-240V Input
- 20W Power
- Supply for Jetson Nano 2GB Raspberry Pi 4 Orange Pi 5/4 LTS/3LTS
- EU US UK AU plug
Be very careful buying USB-serial adapters and cables off Aliexpress, there’s an awful lot of total garbage out there, fake chips, zero-quality-control assembly, copied circuits that they didn’t quite get right, and so on. If you’re going to get one, look for a seller that’s been recommended by other users, e.g. on discussion boards, for selling legit, functional cables.
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I can only underline that. It can be very expensive and painful if the cheap USB-serial adapter grills your SBC. In my humble opinion, the Industrial USB TO TTL Converter from Waveshare has a very good price-performance ratio and is my recommendation to buy.
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+1 for that, Waveshare do good-quality stuff, pulled apart one of their converters a few years ago and it was well made.
Any USB-C PD adapter should be OK, just get one meant for phones/tablets/laptops and you’ll be fine. In my case I’m using an Anker USB power brick because that was what I had handy and it works no problems.